There are few pleasures in life that beat enjoying a slice of Kotorska Pašta with a coffee in the Montenegrin sunshine. This delectable dessert consists of delicate pastry, layered with sweet vanilla custard and is loved by locals and visitors alike.
Should you visit Kotor, make it your mission to try a piece or two of this classic cream cake before you leave. Whilst you will be perfectly understood if you ask for a “Kotor cream pie”, this sweet treat is known as “Kotorska Pašta” in the region.
The history behind Kotorska Pašta
Although the origins of Kotorska Pašta are not 100% clear, it is thought that the dessert was brought over to the city by the Italians. Throughout history there has been a strong link between Montenegro and Italy, from Kotor’s Venetian occupation through to its maritime legacy, the Italian influences can be seen clearly in the city’s cuisine.
There are also similarities between the Kotorska Pašta’s construction and that of the French mille-feuille. Both have a distinct number of pastry layers. Whatever its origins, the home cooks and pastry chefs of Kotor have been serving this dessert on their tables for many hundreds of years and have adopted it as their own.
What makes a classic Kotorska Pašta?
So, what goes into making this iconic dessert? To create your own Kotorska Pašta, you will need eggs, butter, sugar, milk and vanilla sugar for the creamy custard filling and flour, a pinch of salt, vegetable fat and water for the pastry layers. Vegetable fat is used nowadays due to its neutral taste. However, pork fat was used in the past, but this can be overpowering and interfere with the delicate flavour of the pastry and vanilla cream.
The process is quite time consuming, as the pastry is made from scratch. The dry ingredients and water are combined to form a dough, which after resting, is then rolled out into layers. The vegetable fat is then folded into the dough, following a laminated dough technique typically used to create the many flaky layers of croissants and other pastries.
The whole process of mixing, kneading and folding the dough is usually done the day before making the custard filling and finally assembling the Kotorska Pašta. The creamy filling is made by firstly mixing the eggs with a little water. The beaten eggs and sugars are then mixed in with boiled milk. The mixture requires constant stirring as it simmers away on the stovetop, thickening into a custard. Once the custard is cooked, finish it off with a cube of butter to add a rich glossiness to the creamy filling.
Not to be mistaken for krempita or any other custard-cream layered dessert, Kotorska Pašta is specific to the Bay of Kotor. Whereas krempita, a similar custard pastry from the Balkans, sandwiches together cream between two pastry layers, Kotorska Pašta adds a middle, third layer. Under no circumstances should an authentic Kotorska Pašta use instant pudding mix to form the filling, that would be sacrilege. Surprisingly, unlike other custard slices that are typically left to chill in the refrigerator, a Kotorska Pašta is best served warm.
Where to try Kotorska Pašta?
Stroll through the cobbled streets of Kotor’s Old Town and you’ll be sure to find a restaurant or cafe with Kotorska Pašta on its menu. The Old Town’s Venetian piazzas are edged with cafes and restaurants serving all manner of delicacies from the region. Most importantly these offer a range of coffees and cakes for an afternoon treat to fuel your exploration of the local area.
However, for a more authentic experience, homemade Kotorska Pašta simply can’t be matched. If you are lucky enough to be invited to try Kotorska Pašta handmade by a local in their own kitchen, don’t miss the opportunity. In the home is where you will sample the Kotorska Pašta in all its glory, made from an original recipe that has been handed down from generation to generation.
When to eat Kotorska Pašta?
Traditionally, Kotorska Pašta would be served as dessert at every Sunday dinner, family gathering or celebration. No celebration would be complete without a slice of Kotorska Pašta. This creamy confection is a major part of the cultural identity of Kotor and therefore it should be preserved.
Indeed, there are locals who are doing their very best to keep Kotorska Pašta traditions alive in the city. Dragana Knežević was one such Kotor resident who understood the importance of celebrating this delicious dessert. Every year, Knežević organised a festival in honour of the Kotorska Pašta. Usually the event takes place before the busy summer season, inviting the tourists and locals to taste samples of Kotor’s famous creamy dessert and learn all about its history and significance. Unfortunately, Knežević passed away last year but luckily there are others, such as Vijoleta Milošević and Melita Krivokapić, who continue to promote the Kotorska Pašta.
Under the expert instruction of Kotorska Pašta maestro Melita Krivokapić, Vijoleta Milošević learnt how to create this traditional dessert. Together, Knežević, Milošević and Krivokapić have also organised workshops and tasting events to pass on the traditional tips and techniques needed to master a classic Kotorska Pašta. From perfecting the pastry to whipping up the fluffiest custard cream, the events have contributed greatly to preserving the original recipe and passing on this tradition to future generations.
What the future holds for Kotorska Pašta
Unfortunately, the future of the Kotorsa Pašta is under threat. As with any regional specialty, it relies on local people continuing to make it and pass the recipe on. An influx of new food trends and other world cuisines has affected the gastronomy of Kotor. Could food fads be pushing out traditional dishes?
The hustle and bustle of modern life also means that people just don’t have the time to bake a simple cake, nevermind making pastry completely from scratch. So, the amount of people willing to create a homemade Kotorska Pašta from their great-grandmother’s recipe is, sadly, gradually diminishing.
There is hope, as long as individuals like Vijoleta Milošević and Melita Krivokapić continue to showcase local dishes, share recipes and inspire younger generations, the Kotorska Pašta will not be forgotten. Kotor’s creamy custard dessert will always remain a sweet symbol of the city and its residents’ pride over the region’s gastronomy.
From its unknown origins to its status as the must have dessert for any dinner party, the Kotorska Pašta is deserving of all the attention it gets. The fact that it has remained unchanged over the centuries and is still being served in Kotor’s cafes, restaurants and homes, is testament to the dessert’s popularity and the region’s efforts in cultural preservation. As we wrap up our exploration into the story behind the classic Kotorska Pašta, it’s clear that although this dessert is undoubtedly delicious, it is symbolic of so much more.